CME manufacturing recommends using urethane grout for injection into
leaking cracks in swimming pools. Urethane expands to fill cracks in the
pool and voids behind the pools. Gone are the days of using puddy for
fixing leaking pool cracks and pool skimmers.
|High Pressure Repair of Swimming Pool Leaks
Perfect For Concrete Pools
|Our products will permanently fix leaking pool
cracks and skimmers.
High Pressure Urethane Injection Kit
- Best for previously patched cracks and large voids
- Works with water running from the repair
Low Pressure Urethane Injection Kit
- Best for virgin cracks and leaking skimmers
- Pool surface needs to be dry
The pool on the right is in Maine. The customer had annual
repairs of thousands of dollars and have never done injection
before. They purchased the Everseal 6000 and proceeded to
inject all the cracks with our Flex Foam Injection Urethane.
Three weeks later they had yet to have to add a cup of water.
|30 Foot Low
depending on if you are using low pressure or high pressure. Urethane
is then fed into the crack a gun for low pressure or a pump for high
The urethane when exposed to air and moisture begins to expand. This
expansion fills the crack and any void underneath it with a The process
of injection is simple.
Place ports on or in the crack flexible material which will not crack or
allow water to pass through it. It will stop water where the patches and
coatings will fail.
Your pool will naturally lose some water to evaporation, some to
splash-out and some to backwash wastewater. You may also gain
water from rainfall. If you are adding an inch or two of water to your
pool per every week, you may have a leak.
Pools are meant to be watertight. Sealants will deteriorate from UV
rays and chlorine. Concrete will crack from shifting, shrinking and
settling. Pools can leak through any of the fittings or accessories,
plumbing, or even right through the shell. It is important to repair
leaks, not only to save water, heat, and chemicals, but also to prevent
undermining pool structural components and washing away fill dirt.
Is the pool leaking only with the equipment on?
This may indicate a pressure-side return leak. With the filter pump on,
the plumbing on the pressure side is under pressure. This can open
up small drips into spraying gushers. Check the waste or backwash
line for water consistently running. One inch of your pool water can
equal 500 gallons.
Is the pool leaking only with the equipment off?
This usually indicates a suction-side leak. With the filter pump on, the
plumbing on the suction side is under vacuum. Air can be drawn in
through otherwise leaking voids. You may notice air in the pump
basket (if you have a clear lid), air bubbling out of the return lines, or
air repeatedly built up inside the filter tank. Use tape or a pencil to
mark water levels. Is the pump basket lid on tight with a good, lubed
Does the pool leak all the time?
This does not rule out leaks in the plumbing, but turns a suspicious
eye on the shell of the pool, looking for cracks in the plaster or tears in
the vinyl. Look closely at the tile line and look real closely inside of the
skimmer(s). The most common leak we fix is a separation between
the plastic skimmer and the concrete pool. This is easily fixed with
some pool putty. If you see something that looks like a crack, drop
some of your pH indicator test reagent near it with your pump shut off
and water still. See if the dye is sucked into the crack. Under water
lights can and do leak as well. Especially the conduit that runs from
the light niche to the junction box. Filling the opening of the conduit in
the back of the light niche with putty, silicone, or caulk is a way to fix
Are there leaks at the equipment pad?
Look closely at the filter, pump, heater, and valves. Check the ground
for moisture. Turn the pump on and off looking closely for spraying
water when the pump is turned off.
Does the water seem to stabilize at any particular level?
You may be able to close the skimmer valve and allow the water level
to drop below the skimmer. If it keeps going, we can rule out the
skimmer (although there can always be more than one leak). The
underwater light is a common leak source. If the water stabilizes, dye
test around this level very carefully. Look for small debris which may
have been sucked into the crack or void. This is a good indication of a
Are there any wet areas around the pool?
Take a walk around the pool's edge and between the pool and the
equipment pad. Check for wet soil and eroded areas.
Unsure of your evaporation rate?
Place a bucket of water beside the pool and mark both the water in
the bucket and the pool water level. Wait 24 hours then check the loss
of both. If the pool loses more water than the bucket, then you have a
Prices for leak detection and repair will vary widely. Of course,
charges will be lowered with your help of uncovering the facts (see
above) needed to determine the leaks location. Average charges
range from $200 or more depending on the extent of your leak. Higher
prices will be realized for below ground work; however, many leaks
are fixed within one hour. Many pools leak in more than one area so
monitoring is important after any repair is made. There may be
additional charges for cutting and replacing concrete and for SCUBA
Repairing Cracks in the Concrete
Leaking concrete cracks in swimming pools are the most challenging
repairs to make in the pool industry. The challenge comes about not
from the technology available to make the repairs but from the
technology being used to repair pool cracks. Common methods for
repair include chiseling the cracks out a couple of inches and filling
them with epoxies, cementitious grouts, caulk, etc. and then coating
them with plaster. The pool shell will always flex some degree even
though it is made of concrete and stable whether from temperature
change or simply from being filled and adding weight. These events
will stress the repair and cause it to re crack and re leak at some
future date, usually 1-5 years. For many years concrete basements,
bridge decks, dams, etc. had suffered from the same challenges.
Many decades ago engineers discovered that by filling these cracks
with expanding urethane leaks were virtually eliminated. Because
urethane is flexible and expands it fills the crack and washout voids
behind the crack.
Step 1 Drill The Concrete Cracks
Drill a 3/8" or 1/2" into the pool near the crack at a 45degree angle so
as to intercept the crack underneath the surface hopefully at the
halfway point. It is also acceptable to drill through the pool shell
underneath the crack. Drill every 8-12 inches along the crack. Step 2
is to insert injection packers into the hole so half the packer is still
outside the whole. The portion of the packer still exposed is turned
with a wrench until tight. The wrenching wedges the packer in the
Step2 Set Urethane Injection Packers
The packer allows urethane grout to be passed through the packer
into the drill whole ultimately filling the concrete crack. Once the
urethane comes in contact with moisture inherently contained in the
concrete the urethane begins to foam sealing off the crack
permanently. An added benefit to urethane expansion is that large
voids underneath the crack will also be filled economically and
permanently adding additional stability to the pool.
Step3 High Pressure Injection
Using a high pressure drill pump attach the wand on the pump to the
packers and start up the drill. Urethane will be injection in each port
until you see urethane flowing out of the crack in the vicinity of the
crack. Move on the the adjacent port until all the ports have been filled
in this manner. After about 20 minutes the head on the packer can be
removed and the pull can then be patched at the packer points. It is
also best and easiest to remove any excess urethane at this time.
Step4 Fill Pool
Apply any needed coatings and fill the pool. The leaking cracks have
been repaired. Equipment and material costs for this method using
total about $1500 will is very reasonable compared to having these
cracks patched every couple of years.
Customer Service: (630) 771-0380
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